Read e-book online Eating Korean in America: Gastronomic Ethnography of PDF

By Sonia Ryang, Christine R. Yano, Robert Ji-Song Ku

ISBN-10: 0824839358

ISBN-13: 9780824839352

Can foodstuff be either nationwide and worldwide whilst? What occurs whilst a foodstuff with a countrywide identification travels past the limits of a kingdom? What makes a nutrition authentically nationwide and but American or broader international? With those questions in brain, Sonia Ryang explores the area of Korean foodstuff in 4 American destinations, Iowa urban, Baltimore, l. a., and Hawaii (Kona and Honolulu). Ryang visits eating places and grocery shops in each one place and observes Korean nutrition because it is ready and served to consumers. She analyzes the background and evolution of every dish, the way it arrived and what it grew to become, yet especially, she tastes and studies her meals - 4 goods to be particular - naengmyeon chilly noodle soup; jeon pancakes; galbi barbecued red meat; and bibimbap, rice with combined vegetable. In her ethnographic trip, Ryang discovers how the chewy noodles from Pyongyang proceed to keep their texture and but are served in a different way in numerous locales. Jeon pancakes develop into thoroughly decontextualized within the usa and metamorphosed right into a moveable and packable carry-out foodstuff. American shoppers are blind to the pancakeAEs sacred origin.In Hawaii, Ryang fi nds that it's the Vietnamese eating place that serves all of sudden scrumptious galbi barbecued meat. Intertwined within the complicated colonial and postcolonial contexts, Korean galbi and jap yakiniku are available facet through part at the streets of Honolulu frequented by way of either the locals and travelers. In writing consuming Korean in the US: Gastronomic Ethnography of Authenticity , Sonia Ryang is as a lot an eater as a researcher. Her money owed of the towns and their targeted tackle Korean nutrients are straight away interesting and insightful, but deeply relocating. Ryang demanding situations the reader to prevent and look at the meals we devour each day in shut connection to colonial histories, ethnic displacements, and international capitalism.

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Additional info for Eating Korean in America: Gastronomic Ethnography of Authenticity

Sample text

But try it this way: if food is a code, where is the precoded message? . If food is treated as a code, the messages it encodes will be found in the pattern of social relations being expressed. The message is about different degrees of hierarchy, inclusion and exclusion, boundaries and transactions across the boundaries. (Douglas 1972: 61) 20 Introduction In writing about the examples of Korean food that I found at selected locations throughout the United States, I will try to do something similar to what Douglas had in mind: decipher the message or story told by the food and see what kinds of social relations and historical conditions it speaks to and of.

When the purportedly North Korean Okryugwan restaurant opened in Seoul, its popularity derived from a desire among customers to taste authentic Pyongyang naengmyeon. Clearly, Koreans themselves draw a distinction between more or less authentic versions of naengmyeon. Yet, once it has crossed the national border, naengmyeon simply becomes Korean, regardless of whether it is considered Pyongyang-style or not, as in the version found at the food court in Los Angeles’s Koreatown. S. ethnic food market.

When called, I stood up and went over to collect my order of naengmyeon. In common with the standard way of presenting naengmyeon, the tray contained a large bowl of noodles, a small bowl of kimchi, chopsticks, and a spoon. When I started to eat, however, a strange memory came back to me—not of the naengmyeon I had eaten a few months earlier at a food court in Seoul, which I thought would have been the most natural association, but of the naengmyeon I had had in Pyongyang decades earlier. Just like in Pyongyang, and unlike in Seoul, this bowl of naengmyeon was made with unbleached dark buckwheat noodles (see color plates).

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